The Moment I Still Love After 20 Years of Roasting

There’s a moment in every roast that still gives me a little rush. Right around first crack, the drum suddenly fills with that deep, sweet aroma somewhere between fresh bread and dark caramel. After more than 20 years behind the roaster, I still smile every time it happens. You just know the bean is about to reveal everything it has to offer.

Roasting is part science, part instinct, and a whole lot of listening. Over the years I’ve learned a huge amount from studying the work of roasters like Scott Rao, especially the importance of a smooth, steadily declining Rate of Rise and giving each stage exactly what it needs. Here’s how I think about the process now.

The Three Stages — And Why Each One Matters

Every roast moves through the same three stages: drying, browning, and development. Get any of them even slightly off and the whole cup suffers.

Drying is the quiet but critical foundation. We charge the green beans into a hot roaster and watch for the turnaround point, that brief moment when bean temperature drops before it starts climbing again. The goal is to gently drive out the 10–11% moisture inside the bean over 4 to 8 minutes.

I’ve learned from Rao’s teachings that a smooth, steadily declining Rate of Rise right from the start makes all the difference. If the temperature climbs too quickly or unevenly here, the outside of the bean can scorch while the centre is still wet. That sets up problems later, baked, flat, or woody flavours. I treat the drying phase with real care. It’s like quietly charging the bean with energy for everything that follows.

Browning – Where the Maillard Reaction Works Its Magic Around 160°C the roastery fills with that warm, vanilla-cake aroma. This is when the Maillard reaction really begins, the beautiful chemical dance between amino acids and sugars that creates hundreds of flavour and aroma compounds (the same process that gives bread its crust or sears a steak).

In coffee, this reaction is responsible for those lovely toasty, nutty, caramel, chocolate, and biscuit notes we all love. I deliberately slow the roast during this stage. Rush it and you miss out on complexity. Give it time and space, and the coffee develops real depth and sweetness.

Development – The Final Push First crack sounds like popcorn, the bean starts producing its own heat, and things move fast. This stage is usually 15–25% of the total roast time (what many call the Development Time Ratio). It’s where I make the final call on roast degree.

I pay very close attention here. Too long in development and you risk baked, flat coffee. Too short and the flavours stay raw and sharp. I’m watching the curve, listening, and trusting decades of muscle memory to keep that Rate of Rise smooth and controlled right to the end.

My House Philosophy: The Golden Middle Way

I’ve roasted everything from very light single origins to deep, dark blends over the years. Light roasts let the fruity, floral character of beans from East Timor or Ethiopia really sing. Dark roasts bring out body and rich cocoa notes, perfect for our Blend 4 in a strong flat white.

But my sweet spot, and the philosophy we follow at Mahalia, is what I call the golden middle way. I want the coffee developed enough to be sweet and full-bodied, but not so dark that the origin character disappears. It’s a narrower target than people realise, and every bean asks for something slightly different.

Filter or Espresso — Does the Roast Need to Change?

It makes a difference, but not as much as you might think. Filter brewing is gentle and emphasises clarity. Espresso is intense and extracts more in a short time. A roast optimised purely for espresso can taste thin in a pour-over, and a very light filter roast can taste sour under pressure.

For most of our range I aim for a versatile profile that performs beautifully in both. It’s not a compromise. It’s a deliberate balance that lets each bean shine no matter how you brew it.

What I’m Always Chasing

Every new roast profile starts with the same question: What does this specific bean want to become? The answer changes with every origin, every processing method, and every harvest season. That’s what still excites me after 20 years. You never completely solve it. You just keep getting closer.

Every bag that leaves our roastery in Robe, South Australia is the result of that care, cupped, adjusted, and roasted fresh to order.

If you’ve ever wondered what goes into the coffee you drink every day, I hope this gives you a little glimpse behind the curtain. I’d love to know, what’s your favourite way to brew our coffees?

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